"Spelunk Spire stands apart in the Vedauwoo backcountry, offering adventurous climbers solitude, stout cracks, and a window into Wyoming climbing history. Quiet trails and classic lines like Grand Central Station and Old Dogs New Trick provide an authentic granite experience, a world away from the crowds of better-known crags."
Hidden behind the more-trafficked Reynolds Hill, Spelunk Spire rises with an unpolished character that rewards climbers who crave less-traveled granite. At an elevation of 7,915 feet and surrounded by the stoic landscapes of the Vedauwoo area, this crag stands out for its raw beauty and its variety of short but memorable pitches. The air here is crisp, the solitude cutting — a world away from crowded parking lots and busy belay ledges. From the moment you crest the high ground above the creek, Spelunk Spire’s profile dominates a meadow, calling you into an experience where history hangs in every seam and the adventure feels wholly your own.
This spire is more than a feature on the skyline. Climbing lore here dates back to at least the 1970s, its routes described in classic Wyoming guidebooks and first explored through a mosaic of caves, jumbled rocks, and overgrown inclines. The main formation stretches as a lucky find for those willing to hike a bit further and hunt for quiet lines. While some routes have faded into obscurity, a handful of captivating cracks and faces have endured — including wrist-testing splitters and the smooth slab of Grand Central Station (5.6).
The approach is a journey worth savoring. Start as you would for Reynolds Hill, crossing a boulder-strewn creek before veering right, tracing higher ground above the water. The faint path becomes clear once you're committed, winding through pockets of willows and sparse trees, with Old Devil's Playground and the distinct arch of Muscle and Fitness looming across the way. In the right light, Spelunk Spire reveals itself, isolated across an open field — offering an arena for those who seek climbing with a touch of exploration.
The climbing palette here is diverse, with cracks that test your creativity and old aid scars that hint at the area's evolution. Lines like Wrist Ranger (5.9) and Paper Training (5.9) bring stout jamming and subtle technical demands, earning respect among Vedauwoo regulars. For those aiming high, Old Dogs New Trick (5.11c) packs steep moves and airy moments deserving of its four and a half stars — a true test piece for those hungry for a challenge. With climbs spread along the spire’s shoulder, most pitches are short but punchy, offering satisfying movement above the rolling Wyoming hills.
While the walls aren’t soaring, what Spelunk Spire lacks in sheer height it compensates for with charm and variety. Expect to use solid traditional gear placements, though some relic fixed gear hints at the old school roots. Protection is generally good if you’re methodical; make sure to bring a full rack heavy on midsize cams and nuts. Sandbagging is part of the Vedauwoo reputation, and Spelunk Spire continues that legacy — don’t underestimate the grades, especially on the cracks that nearly spit out your fingertips.
Weather in this zone is fickle. The granite bakes in the sun during summer and can be surprisingly cold in spring and fall. Thunderstorms roll in fast — keep an eye out for shifting clouds, and pack for sudden weather swings. The best seasons are late spring through early fall, when the creeks are running and the willows add a wash of green to your hike in.
Local knowledge says Spelunk Spire is ideal for those who value adventure over crowds. Its hidden approach, combined with the firm rock and classic lines, make it a place where you earn every experience. Top out and take a breath: with Vedauwoo’s distant domes in view and the quiet of Wyoming’s backcountry around you, it’s hard not to feel a little more alive.
For the descent, expect straightforward downclimbs, but don’t rush: the terrain is uneven with caves and steep gullies. Double-check anchors if rappeling and be cautious of loose stones. With a little respect for the land and sharp focus on the approach, Spelunk Spire delivers exactly what so many crave from Wyoming granite — discovery, challenge, and a rare sense of finding your own way.
Loose blocks, hidden holes, and old aid gear increase the need for vigilance. Check placements carefully and move slowly in the blocky descent terrain. Thunderstorms are common, so keep a sharp eye on changing skies.
The approach trail can be faint — look for subtle rises in the field and aim for the open meadow.
After rain, the rock dries quickly but can be slick early; stick to cracks where possible.
Spring and fall offer the best conditions; avoid summer afternoons when sun exposure is high.
Pack layers and check the forecast — weather turns quickly at 7,900 feet.
A full standard trad rack is essential, with a focus on finger to hand-size cams and a set of nuts. Some fixed hardware remains from older routes, but trust your placements and don't rely on aging relics.
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