The South Face of Machete Ridge stands as a compelling destination for climbers seeking accessible routes tucked into California’s Pinnacles National Park. This area offers a concentrated, rugged experience with a range of moderate climbs anchored around the iconic Old Original route. Approaching the South Face requires a short but steady hike of roughly 500 feet uphill on a faint climber’s trail that begins just past a seasonal waterfall and before reaching an area known as The Gameshow. The ascent traverses forested slopes prone to ticks during warmer months and leads climbers up third-class slabs that bring you right beneath the south-facing buttress where the climbs start.

The rock face reveals an inviting granite canvas molded by time — it’s broad, generally sound, and uncomplicated terrain that is well suited to climbers who appreciate moderate cracks and slab climbing, with bolts and protection placements familiar to the region’s trad ethos. Classic routes here include Old Original (5.5), Bullseye (5.5), and Derringer (5.5), all moderate in difficulty and offering a balanced mixture of hand cracks and jamming sequences. These climbs provide a perfect playground for those honing trad skills or those looking for enjoyable, less intimidating lines with solid anchors.

However, climbers must be prepared to adapt their plans depending on seasonal wildlife closures. Since 2018, California condors have established nests along this very south end of Machete Ridge, especially impacting access to routes west of Pigeon Crack and including much of the South Face’s prime climbs like Old Original. These closures are in place to protect the slow maturing condor fledglings and are strictly enforced from shortly after Martin Luther King Day through July 3 each year. It’s essential to consult the current raptor advisory from the National Park Service and the Friends of Pinnacles websites before heading out to avoid inadvertently disturbing the birds and to prevent your climb from being cut short.

For those fortunate enough to climb when conditions allow, weather tends to support year-round climbing with the South Face’s southern exposure offering early morning sun during cooler months and some shade as the sun arcs west in summer. The elevation of approximately 1,855 feet situates climbers in a zone with moderate temperatures and breathes freshness through the surrounding oak and chaparral. Weather patterns generally produce a dry summer and mild winter, though spring can bring intermittent precipitation and higher humidity.

The South Face is part of a remarkable climbing complex within Pinnacles National Park’s West Side’s Machete Ridge, a geological playground rich with history and rugged natural beauty. Unlike more crowded Californian climbing areas, the access here preserves a quieter, more contemplative environment ideal for climbers who want a straightforward adventure with solid lines and unhurried approach hikes.

Gear considerations align with the area’s trad emphasis—standard trad rack with a focus on midsize cams and a double set of nuts covers most routes, though bolted anchors are common and well maintained. Climbers should be prepared for exposed slab sections and use caution during tick season on the approach trail. Descents are typically completed by downclimbing or walking off around the ridge, so familiarity with managing loose terrain and reading slab terrain is advisable.

While the South Face may not boast an extensive variety of climbs, its setting, quality moderate routes, and the thrill of climbing in a protected California wilderness alongside impressive condor conservation efforts shape a unique, memorable experience. With careful planning and respect for natural closures, climbers can savor the subtle beauty and enduring charm that Machete Ridge’s South Face offers.