Hidden Buttress: Secret Stone and Serene Lines at Devil's Lake

Baraboo, Wisconsin
quiet
good for warm up
single pitch
trad climbing
forest approach
less crowded
fall colors
Length: 30-50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
single pitch
Protected Place
Devil's Lake State Park
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Hidden Buttress rewards climbers with quiet, quality lines in the 5.8-5.11 range and a simple approach away from busier Devil's Lake cliffs. Its peaceful setting and standout routes like Fern Man offer the perfect mix of adventure and practicality for those craving solitude and solid stone."

Hidden Buttress: Secret Stone and Serene Lines at Devil's Lake

Tucked quietly away within Wisconsin’s legendary Devil’s Lake State Park, Hidden Buttress sits like a local secret just steps from the road, offering climbers a tranquil alternative to the area’s more crowded cliffs. For those with a spirit for discovery and a craving for hands-on limestone, this spot rewards the patient and curious with a handful of classic lines and the kind of peaceful setting that feels worlds away from bustling trailheads.

Approaching Hidden Buttress feels like a rite of passage for anyone eager to leave the crowds behind in favor of calm slopes and the promise of untouched rock. Leave your car at the CCC parking area and head east along the paved road, letting the urgency of the day melt away beneath the dense canopy. Soon you’ll veer off at the Quarry entrance, skirt left of the main Quarry road, and as the gravel bends right, trust your instincts and head left. A short scramble past the first boulder field brings you through a thin screen of trees—never too steep, but always engaging. Over a couple hundred vertical feet you’re quickly rewarded, and as you emerge uphill, the buttress comes into view, its weathered stone inviting and free from the cacophony of larger climbing scenes.

This is not a massive cliff with endless options, but within Hidden Buttress’s compact footprint lies a set of lines in the 5.8 to 5.11 range, each with distinct character. The area’s real gem is Fern Man (5.9), a climb that’s earned its reputation as a three-and-a-half-star local classic. Whether used as a warm-up or savored for its own blend of moves, Fern Man embodies what visiting climbers seek here: good friction, thoughtful sequences, and just the right amount of challenge to sharpen your focus before heading toward the renowned White Wall. The buttress’ overall scale makes Hidden Buttress especially appealing for those who appreciate single-pitch endeavors with a clear top-out and minimal fuss.

Climbers used to the formidable verticals and bigger approaches of other Devil’s Lake crags will appreciate Hidden Buttress’s straightforward vibe. The top of the wall sits around 1,131 feet in elevation; while the routes aren’t notably high, they pack quality movement into manageable climbs. The quiet extras—the hush of wind in the leaves, the filtered light cutting across knobby holds—make even a short session here a memorable break from the hustle further up the bluff.

Route protection is typically straightforward but requires attentive gear placement if you’re climbing on trad gear; bring a standard rack with plenty of nuts and small-to-medium cams. The strong friction and clean faces mean you won’t spend much time hunting for hidden placements, but as always at Devil’s Lake, double-check your pro and keep a methodical mindset.

The descent is as casual as the approach. Most lines allow for a simple walk-off down the gently sloping backside—just keep an eye out for loose rock in the leaf litter, and tread carefully to avoid erosion on this already lightly-trafficked hillside. Because the area sees less foot-traffic than more famous crags, the approach trails and landing zones tend to be in good, but sometimes rugged, condition. Watch for roots and slick spots after rain.

Whether you’re on a mission to sample every crag in the East Bluff or just seeking a peaceful warm-up before tackling the park’s harder testpieces, Hidden Buttress is a worthy detour. Its quick access, quality lines, and mellow atmosphere offer just enough taste of Devil’s Lake climbing culture—making every visit feel like a small, well-earned adventure. And for those who value solitude as much as stone, here’s a place where you can breathe easy, focus on the movement, and savor Wisconsin’s best rock without the crowds.

Climber Safety

Hidden Buttress sees less traffic; always check holds and gear placements for stability and watch for loose rocks, especially on descent. After wet weather, approach trails and ledges can become slick—move with care.

Area Details

TypeTrad
Pitchessingle pitch
Length30-50 feet

Local Tips

Arrive early for solitude, as the buttress is close to the road but sees few visitors.

After rain, watch the approach for slick rocks and roots.

Look for shaded conditions in the morning; afternoons can get warm in the sun.

Use established walk-off paths to preserve soil and reduce erosion.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:With grades in the 5.8-5.11 range, Hidden Buttress offers approachable but rewarding climbing, typical of Devil's Lake’s honest, sometimes stiff grading. Fern Man (5.9) stands out as a solid test piece—true to its grade—making it a perfect benchmark for those familiar with the park's style.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard rack with nuts and small-to-medium cams. Protection is generally good, but careful placements are advised on these short, classic Devil's Lake climbs.

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Tags

quiet
good for warm up
single pitch
trad climbing
forest approach
less crowded
fall colors