Located deep within the iconic Ten Sleep Canyon, Full Charge Crag marks the farthest climbing point to the right as you move down canyon. This striking sector stands out with its set of distinctive rock towers just beyond the Tilt-a-Whirl crag, capped on the far edge by a pronounced triple bulge formation that faces the canyon’s mouth. Climbers approaching Full Charge will experience a rugged blend of moderate to challenging vertical climbs that span from 5.10- to 5.11+. The style here offers a crisp mixture of technical face climbing and confident moves on solid stone, rewarding those who navigate the routes with a sense of accomplishment and connection to the wild surroundings.

Access to Full Charge Crag is straightforward but demands attention. Use the established Lake Point Approach to reach the area, then walk right, crossing two talus slides to arrive at the base of the towers. The talus fields require steady footing and care, reminding climbers that this is a place where both approach and ascent demand respect. Situated at an elevation of just over 8,800 feet, the climbing environment can shift with the seasons, delivering cool mornings that warm into sunny afternoons.

Weather-wise, the prime climbing months follow the typical Wyoming schedule, favoring late spring through early fall. Daytime temperatures are generally pleasant but always check local forecasts, especially keeping an eye on precipitation patterns to avoid surprises. This high desert climate means swiftly changing conditions - pack layers and prepare for sudden shifts.

Full Charge Crag is part of Ten Sleep Canyon’s greater ecosystem, itself housed within the Powder River Ranger District — a protected area emphasizing sustainable recreation. Notably, the area faces current seasonal restrictions due to raptor nesting zones, particularly near the Moby Dick wall, making it critical to respect posted closures and avoid new route development. This stewardship reminds climbers that balance is key: preserving access today requires mindful choices and cooperation.

Among the climbs here are some notable classics worth scouting out. Routes like Wyld Stallions (5.10a), Fixing the Ferris Wheel (5.10), and the bold Full Charge (5.11c) - a highlight earning a solid 4.5-star reputation - provide distinctive options for intermediate to advanced climbers chasing memorable lines. The challenge here is balanced by the solid rock quality and the uncluttered nature of the sector, which encourages a focused, personal challenge without crowds.

Approaching the granite towers, climbers will appreciate the subtle roughness of the rock, offering dependable friction and the satisfaction of technical moves that demand precision rather than pure power. The terrain is a patchwork of vertical faces and bulging overhangs, requiring a well-rounded skillset to manage different route types. The sense of isolation fosters a quiet mental focus, punctuated by dramatic canyon vistas stretching south and east.

Getting down after the climb is manageable — most routes end with a moderate walk-off or straightforward downclimb. However, always prepare for loose talus on descent, and keep an eye on your footing when retracing the approach trail. Descent safety is important here as the canyon’s rugged topography can surprise even experienced climbers.

For gear, expect mostly sport climbs with fixed anchors, but respect the US Forest Service guidelines that prohibit new bolt placements. While the rock is solid and protection reliable on classic routes, there is a strong emphasis on following established routes and minimizing impact. This area is a true reflection of Ten Sleep’s developing climbing ethics — blending adventure, access, and preservation.

Whether you’re drawn by the allure of challenging 5.11 cracks or the consistent smiles earned from solid 5.10 technical face routes, Full Charge Crag delivers an authentic Wyoming climbing experience. From the natural approach under open skies to the satisfaction of topping out on clean lines at elevation, this crag offers a genuine outdoor puzzle that demands respect, preparation, and a spirit ready to meet the granite head-on.