Exploring the North Face in Colorado’s RMNP: Granite and Gneiss on the Edge

Estes Park, Colorado
slab climbing
gneiss
granite
multi-pitch
trad
high alpine
seepage
rock quality
Length: 1200 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
multi-pitch
Protected Place
Rocky Mountain National Park
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The North Face in Rocky Mountain National Park offers a distinctive climbing experience, split between slabby granite and steep gneiss. Quiet and largely untouched, this towering wall challenges climbers with its unique rock features and seasonal secrets."

Exploring the North Face in Colorado’s RMNP: Granite and Gneiss on the Edge

The North Face stands tall in the shadow of the famed Cathedral Wall and Cathedral Spires, yet it remains a relatively untouched giant in Rocky Mountain National Park. This imposing 1200-foot wall demands attention not through fame or crowded routes, but through its compelling division between two distinct rock faces and a large, welcoming ledge system at roughly 450 feet up. Below this ledge, the slabby granite offers a rare climbing experience – smooth, less fractured than the intense splitter cracks one might expect, and angled with a gentle, thoughtful grace much like Sierra granite, but easier on the arms. The subtle cracks and seams here provide limited but high-quality gear placements, inviting confident slab climbers to test balance and precision.

Above the ledge, the rock transforms into the classic Hallett gneiss, bringing steeper pitches, crisp features, and well-defined cracks weaving through the face. These upper sections invite climbers comfortable on moderate terrain with the added challenge of navigating more varied holds and intermittent gear placements. The contrasting character between the lower granite and upper gneiss sections offers a unique day of climbing – you start with pure, elegant slab and finish on an energetic, featured face.

Summer climbers should expect some seepage on the wall, particularly in the warmer months, but surprisingly the rock remains exceptionally clean despite little traffic. The face leans northwest, and in late August, the sun reaches the lower slabs around noon, warming these otherwise cool, shaded granite slabs into a perfect microclimate for climbing. This quiet corner of RMNP feels evocative of true alpine rock climbing, away from the more popular and crowded routes nearby.

Approaching the wall requires some thoughtful route-finding. Late in the summer as waters recede, an approach around the west side of Loch Vale leads to multiple creek crossings and a short talus slope climb to the base. Early season visitors might prefer crossing at the outlet or east side of the Loch, following the talus above the south shore to avoid swollen creeks. The obvious large ledge and two gullies, Deep Freeze and Necrophilia, act as natural markers on the face’s right side, helping orient visitors to this dramatic wall.

Planning your trip here demands respect for seasonal closures. The area is subject to avian habitat protections, from February 15 to July 31, when raptors claim the high cliffs for nesting. These closures reflect the National Park Service’s commitment to balancing conservation with climbing access. Climbers should always check RMNP’s latest area closure updates before heading out.

One classic climb to seek out is Raise the Roof (5.8), a test-piece that perfectly captures the character of the wall – technical, moderate-grade climbing that rewards careful footwork and mental focus. While the North Face’s route count is modest, the quality and variety of terrain provide a refreshing alternative for climbers looking to escape packed trails and busy routes.

Gear-wise, expect to bring a rack focused on smaller cams and nuts to protect the delicate cracks below, and gear suitable for steeper, featured pitches above. The slabby granite demands precise footwork and comfort with less-than-obvious placements, so a cautious approach to protection is essential. The rock is solid and clean, but the sporadic seepage means climbers should be aware of slick patches after precipitation.

Descending typically involves a careful walk off around the base or retracing your path back down the talus slopes to the creek crossings. No fixed descent anchors exist here, so rappelling is generally not practiced. The remoteness and seasonal protections make this a somewhat wilderness-oriented outing compared to more conventional climbs in the area.

As part of the iconic RMNP alpine rock scene, the North Face offers climbers a chance to engage with pristine, largely unexplored terrain, immersed in the breathtaking high-country setting. The wall’s unique split personality between smooth granite slabs and classic gneiss steeps creates an experience both accessible and challenging, grounded in solid adventure ethics and respect for a protected environment. For those ready to look beyond the familiar and savor the quiet power of this northern wall, the North Face promises rewarding days of climbing under Colorado’s expansive sky.

Climber Safety

Be mindful of seasonal seepage which can create slick patches, especially on the granite slabs below the ledge. Creek crossings on the approach vary by season and can become hazardous in early summer; plan accordingly. Respect seasonal closures due to raptor nesting and avoid off-trail travel during restricted months.

Area Details

TypeTrad
Pitchesmulti-pitch
Length1200 feet

Local Tips

Late summer offers the best creek crossing conditions on the west side of Loch Vale.

Check RMNP seasonal closures to avoid raptor nesting restrictions from mid-February to end of July.

Sun hits the lower slabs around noon in late August, warming the granite for comfortable climbing.

No fixed rappel anchors — plan for walk-off descent via the approach talus slopes.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The climbs on the North Face generally fall on the moderate end of difficulty, with classic routes like Raise the Roof rated 5.8. The overall feeling is approachable but demands sharp technique on slab and solid trad skills on featured pitches. This area doesn't have a reputation for sandbagging; the grades feel fair compared with other alpine granite climbs in the Rockies and parts of Hallett Peak nearby.

Gear Requirements

Expect to rely on smaller cams and nuts on the slabby granite sections below the 450-foot ledge, with additional gear for steeper, featured pitches on gneiss above. Protection will focus on gear placements along sparse cracks and seams; no fixed anchors or bolts present.

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Tags

slab climbing
gneiss
granite
multi-pitch
trad
high alpine
seepage
rock quality