Exploring Lily Pad Crags - Vermont’s Quiet Granite Haven

Bristol, Vermont
granite
trad
single pitch
forest approach
raptor closures
quiet spot
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
single pitch
Protected Place
Mt Hor Slabs
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Lily Pad Crags offers a peaceful granite climbing experience on the southern hillside of Mt Hor Slabs in Vermont. A short, off-trail hike leads to solid rock and a standout classic climb, perfect for those seeking quality routes away from the crowds."

Exploring Lily Pad Crags - Vermont’s Quiet Granite Haven

Lily Pad Crags offer a subtle, yet rewarding granite climbing experience tucked into the southern hillside of the Mt Hor Slabs area in Vermont. Unlike more trafficked spots, this cluster of outcroppings demands a short hike through open deciduous forest, creating a quiet and almost secretive atmosphere that invites climbers to slow down and savor the granite beneath their hands.

The approach to Lily Pad Crags is refreshingly simple, albeit off-trail. From the Main Slab, head climbers left along the base and ascend for 5 to 10 minutes through easily navigable woods. The lack of a formal trail means you focus on natural landmarks and feel more connected to the landscape as you move through dappled light and gentle forest hum. The elevation here is about 1,364 feet, giving you a modest altitude that blends well with Vermont’s rolling terrain.

Once on the crags, the quality of granite surfaces immediately stands out. Although the route count is small, each climb shines with well-formed holds and clean rock faces that feel solid and trustworthy. Among the climbs, Flight 42069 (5.11c) stands as a classic route, earning its reputation with a solid 4-star rating among visitors. That route, specifically, gives climbers a chance to test their skill on Vermont’s granite, offering a memorable challenge without unnecessary complexity.

Climbing here is best planned around seasonal raptor closures, as the crags are home to nesting birds protected under regional regulations. Checking current seasonal access updates at cragvt.org is essential to respect wildlife and ensure your climb has no interruptions.

The orientation of the crags favors afternoon sun, which warms the rock nicely but also means early season or late autumn climbs may be chilled by the forest shade. The deciduous trees provide a comfortable interplay of shadow and sun during the warmer months, making spring through early fall the optimal climbing window.

Safety-wise, the absence of a trail and the remoteness of this modest cluster require focused attention on navigation — keeping track of natural markers will prevent losing your way. The rock quality is high, but as always on granite, occasional loose rock can appear especially near ledges. The climbs themselves are predominantly single-pitch, allowing for straightforward ascents and efficient managing of ropes and gear.

Gear here tends toward traditional rack essentials; the routes aren’t heavily bolted, so bringing a set of cams and nuts tuned to protect medium cracks will serve well. Pads aren’t necessary since the climbing is roped and vertical rather than bouldering-focused. Planning for a light rack keeps your pack compact, perfect for the short walk-in and easy carry along the gentle hillside.

Lily Pad Crags sits within the greater Mt Hor Slabs area, known for its clean granite features and quiet Vermont wilderness setting. This is a place where the climbing is less about scale and more about quality and quiet moments on the rock. It’s ideal for climbers looking to expand their experience outside popular corridors — a chance to explore granite faces that blend adventure and serene natural beauty in balance.

Descending from the crags is a simple walk off through forested slopes back to the main slab base. No rappels required here, making it a convenient spot for climbers prioritizing straightforward logistics. The short hike back also rewards climbers with sweeping views over the hillside forest, a perfect time to reflect quietly on the day’s ascent.

In short, Lily Pad Crags welcomes climbers seeking a calm, high-quality granite experience within Vermont’s Northern region. With a classic climb like Flight 42069 to look forward to and an easily accessible approach, this area stands out as a practical yet inspiring destination when planning your next climbing trip in the Green Mountain State.

Climber Safety

Be mindful of seasonal closures due to nesting raptors. Approach is off-trail with minimal signage, so carrying GPS or a map to avoid getting off route is recommended. Granite here is clean but watch for occasional loose rock near edges.

Area Details

TypeTrad
Pitchessingle pitch
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Check cragvt.org for seasonal raptor closures before planning your visit.

Approach is off-trail through open deciduous forest; watch for natural markers to navigate.

Afternoon climbs offer the best sun exposure on the crags.

Descent is an easy walk off—no rappels needed.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The key classic climb, Flight 42069, at 5.11c represents the upper moderate-to-hard end of the local range, offering a solid challenge without overshooting skill requirements. The area’s small number of routes suggests a focus on quality rather than quantity. There is no indication that grades are sandbagged or unusually stiff; the climbing is straightforward and reliable granite fare.

Gear Requirements

Routes require a traditional rack with cams and nuts appropriate for protecting granite cracks; no fixed gear is mentioned. The climbs are single-pitch, and a compact rack suits the approach and terrain.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

granite
trad
single pitch
forest approach
raptor closures
quiet spot