Earl the Squirrel Slab Bouldering - Alabama's Hidden Gem

Fort Payne, Alabama
slab
crimps
small pockets
brush required
bouldering
moderate difficulty
Citadel
Alabama
technical climbing
Length: 15 ft
Type: Boulder
Stars
Pitches
Bouldering
Protected Place
Citadel
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Discover a quiet slab wall behind Earl the Squirrel in Alabama’s Citadel area, offering technical slab climbing with small pockets and crimps. This hidden gem delivers moderate challenges that reward precision and finesse, perfect for honing slab skills away from the crowds."

Earl the Squirrel Slab Bouldering - Alabama's Hidden Gem

Tucked just behind the well-known Earl the Squirrel bouldering zone lies a rare slab wall that offers climbers a fresh challenge—one that’s unusual for Alabama’s terrain. This is true slab climbing at its finest, featuring gently inclined faces less than vertical, free of the frustrating slopers or horizontal cracks that can break rhythm or reduce movement to a simple ladder climb. The rock demands nimble technique: precise heel hooks, delicate crimps, and careful balance on small pockets reward those willing to engage fully with the stone. While the grades remain unofficial due to the area’s relative newness and low traffic, the feel is distinctly moderate — an excellent spot to push slab skills in a quiet, underappreciated corner of Citadel.

Approaching this wall requires a touch of local knowledge. From Ninja Camp, take the cliff line on your left, where the slabs spread out before you, with Earl the Squirrel proper just out of sight around the corner to the right. The setting sits at roughly 1,650 feet elevation, giving climbers a bit of altitude without a grueling approach—perfect for a half-day session or an afternoon outing. The wall’s orientation invites aim for prime climbing windows in spring and fall when the heat of Alabama’s summers gives way to cooler, drier air.

Currently, the climbing surfaces show signs of neglect, with dirt and debris dulling the holds. A thorough brushing session is recommended before sending, enhancing friction and safety. This additional effort rewards climbers with cleaner edges and more engaging sequences. Given the wall’s delicate slab nature, padding up with multiple crash pads and careful spotters is advised to avoid harsh landings.

Though the area consists of just a handful of routes, it hosts a standout challenge: Earl the Squirrel (V7), a classic for boulderers in the region. This problem encapsulates what makes the spot special—technical precision on slabby terrain that tests toe-edge placement and body tension without relying on brute strength or dramatic overhangs.

The rock itself is a gritty sandstone (though the exact geology remains less documented), offering a tactile, confident grip when dry. Weather patterns in the region are predictable enough to plan visits around rain; prime seasons tend to be spring through fall when precipitation is moderate. Climbers will find it wise to monitor forecast to avoid damp conditions that can sap friction or damage the rock. Bringing a rope for cleaning or occasional top-rope practice may add versatility, especially for those wanting to experiment safely on less-explored lines.

In essence, this slab wall behind Earl the Squirrel rewards those who appreciate understated challenges and technical finesse. It’s a quiet counterpoint to the more populated bouldering spots nearby, offering fresh opportunities to refine footwork and balance in a setting that encourages stewardship. As foot traffic grows, regular brushing and maintenance should bring this spot back to prime condition, inviting climbers of all levels to savor one of Alabama’s more unusual slab experiences.

Whether you seek to hone slab skills or simply enjoy a mellow day out with well-placed holds and subtle sequences, this hidden slab at Citadel is a worthwhile destination. Pack your brushes, pads, and patience—you'll find a climbing session here that’s as rewarding as it is rare in these parts.

Climber Safety

Climbers should be cautious of the currently dirty holds; thorough brushing is essential before climbing. The slab terrain lacks large fall zones, so multiple crash pads and vigilant spotters are recommended to prevent injury. Weather can affect friction rapidly, so avoid climbing when rock is damp.

Area Details

TypeBoulder
PitchesBouldering
Length15 feet

Local Tips

Approach the slab by following the cliff line from Ninja Camp; slabs will be on your left.

Brush dirt and debris off the holds thoroughly to maximize friction.

Use multiple crash pads and spotters due to the slab’s low-angle but potentially unforgiving landings.

Plan visits for spring or fall to avoid Alabama’s summer heat and wet conditions.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:Earl the Squirrel's slab bouldering offers a moderately challenging experience focused on technical slab moves rather than power. The grades here—while not officially determined—lean moderate, making it an approachable but precise spot. The area avoids the sandbagging seen in some nearby crags, rewarding methodical footwork over brute strength.

Gear Requirements

Bring a rope and a good brushing kit to clean holds before climbing. Multiple crash pads and attentive spotting improve safety on the slab. Weatherproof clothing recommended for varying conditions.

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Tags

slab
crimps
small pockets
brush required
bouldering
moderate difficulty
Citadel
Alabama
technical climbing