Climbing The Sphinx: Granite Challenges Above Tioga Road

Lee Vining, California
granite
multi-pitch
trad climbing
alpine
exposed approach
east sierra
5.10
Length: 500 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
multi-pitch
Protected Place
Eastern Sierra
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Sphinx towers above Tioga Road in California’s Eastern Sierra, offering a mix of technical multi-pitch climbs and summit routes set on solid granite. Classic routes like Cerro K'Narlé provide rewarding challenges amid breathtaking alpine scenery."

Climbing The Sphinx: Granite Challenges Above Tioga Road

Rising dramatically above Tioga Road, The Sphinx stands as a striking 500-foot granite sentinel, known by locals as the 'Pope's Hat' or 'Pronghorn Dome'. This imposing formation offers climbers a rugged playground with routes that challenge both skill and spirit, rewarding ascents with broad views of the Eastern Sierra’s wild expanse. Approaching The Sphinx, you can’t help but feel the raw purity of the granite underfoot, with shattered slabs and solid cracks inviting a measured, thoughtful approach.

The south face hosts the most established routes, where the four-pitch 'Great Googley Boogley' (5.10) delivers sustained and varied climbing across a clean granite canvas. Just to its left, the 'Cerro K'Narlé' (5.10a) stands out as a classic offering, earning high praise for its quality and challenge. Climbers speak highly of the 'Big Horn' (5.10b) route to its right, documented enough to offer reliable guidance for those seeking a technically engaging ascent. Beyond these, some routes remain obscured in mystery, pieced together from summit register scribbles and photographic topos. Tackling these means venturing into a small degree of adventure and uncertainty, rewarding the bold with a memorable personal quest.

For those prioritizing summit views over pure technical difficulty, an accessible route ascends from the Warren Creek trailhead ascending the back canyon. This approach reaches a saddle via a brief stretch of class 5 climbing, capped off by a short boulder problem that includes a 5.7 move before topping out on the ridge. From this vantage, the East Ridge extends further, accessible from either the saddle or southern aspects of The Sphinx.

Access is straightforward yet demands readiness—just over half a mile east of Rhinedollar Dam on Ellery Lake, park along Tioga Road beneath The Sphinx’s shadow. The trail up involves scrambling over fractured slabs, requiring steady footing and caution. Climbers should come prepared for a somewhat exposed approach that rewards careful movement with quick access to the rock.

Perched around 10,160 feet elevation, weather can shift quickly. Planning your visit within the prime climbing season—generally late spring through early fall—will help avoid the cold and snow that grip this high alpine environment outside summer. Thin air and bright sun add their own demands, so bring plenty of water and sun protection.

The Sphinx area is part of the greater Eastern Sierra climbing scene, a rugged landscape that attracts adventurers seeking both classic lines and remote alpine experiences. Though modest in route count, the granite here feels substantial and engaging, presenting a balance of technical, multi-pitch climbing and approachable summit attempts.

Whether coming for the adventure of routes like Cerro K'Narlé or simply to ascend the summit ridge for panoramic vistas, The Sphinx offers a rewarding encounter with high Sierra rock and sky. Those venturing here should be ready to navigate somewhat isolated conditions with self-reliance and respect for the fragile high country.

Local wisdom encourages climbers to update beta whenever possible, as some routes remain lightly documented and can evolve with new parties visiting. The rock is generally solid, but the nature of the granite means loose rock can occasionally be present, particularly on approach slabs.

Climbers will find this area ideal for those who appreciate climb complexity paired with alpine environment immersion. Paired with the nearby Eastern Sierra attractions, The Sphinx stands as a compelling destination for a day or multi-pitch outing that delivers on both challenge and natural splendor.

Climber Safety

Approach slabs can be loose, especially after freeze-thaw cycles. Helmets are strongly recommended. Weather at elevation can shift quickly, bringing cold and storms even in summer months, so carry appropriate gear and monitor conditions closely.

Area Details

TypeTrad
Pitchesmulti-pitch
Length500 feet

Local Tips

Park carefully along Tioga Road just east of Rhinedollar Dam where space is limited.

Approach involves exposed scrambling; take your time and watch for loose rock on slabs.

Weather can change rapidly at over 10,000 feet—check forecasts and be prepared for cold nights.

Document and share any new route information to help update beta for future visitors.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The climbs on The Sphinx generally land in the 5.10a to 5.10b range, presenting moderate but consistent challenges for intermediate to advanced climbers. The style leans toward solid granite cracks and face climbing, with routes that feel straightforward but require solid technique and composure. The area is not known for sandbagging; grades feel fair relative to the climbing style and exposure. Compared to other Eastern Sierra granite walls, The Sphinx offers a more intimate multi-pitch experience but demands alpine awareness.

Gear Requirements

Routes here require standard trad rack capable of handling mid-sized cams for finger to hand cracks, plus some slings and runners for protection on multipitch climbs. Approach involves scrambling over shattered granite slabs—sticky rubber shoes and a helmet recommended.

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Tags

granite
multi-pitch
trad climbing
alpine
exposed approach
east sierra
5.10