Bald Beaver Rock - Vermont’s Stark Granite Boulder Experience

Waterbury, Vermont
granite
mossy slab
sloping flakes
bouldering
seasonal closures
forested approach
moderate height
technical footwork
Length: 15 ft
Type: Boulder
Stars
Pitches
single boulder problems
Protected Place
Pisgah S Trail Moraine
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Bald Beaver Rock stands out as a striking light granite boulder in northern Vermont, delivering a handful of clean, technical bouldering routes framed by forest trails and seasonal moss. This intimate climbing spot challenges skillful footwork and balance in a serene yet rugged environment."

Bald Beaver Rock - Vermont’s Stark Granite Boulder Experience

Bald Beaver Rock rises with a commanding presence along the wooded trails of northern Vermont, its pale granite face catching the light from the west-southwest and inviting climbers to test their skills on its distinctive sloping flakes. Perched at an elevation of 1,473 feet, this boulder is a striking feature in the Pisgah S Trail Moraine area, offering a raw, engaging selection of bouldering problems that balance challenging moves with a serene, forested setting.

Approaching Bald Beaver Rock requires a short hike east of the largest rock in the area, with the boulder clearly visible upon ascent and positioned just to the right side of the main trail. The terrain to reach it is straightforward, though climbers will want to watch for moss that frequently covers the top and northern face, requiring a bit of cleaning before tackling the climbs. This moss, a reminder of Vermont’s damp climate, adds a touch of wildness to the experience but also demands respect and care for the rock’s condition.

The climbing here is characterized by three main routes, each offering a sharply different challenge but sharing the boulder’s signature granite texture and sloping flakes. Climbers rate the classic Bald Beaver (V4), Big Beaver (V3), and the more demanding Mangy Muskrat (V6, open project) fairly well, giving an idea of the variety of moves from moderate to more strenuous. While the route count is limited, the quality and individuality of each problem make this a worthy stop on any regional bouldering itinerary.

Seasonal raptor closures mean climbers should plan their visits carefully and check current access updates on cragvt.org to avoid any restrictions. The area’s weather impacts climbing conditions noticeably — periods of precipitation and moss growth call for patience and timing, with prime climbing seasons best found in the drier months when the slab and flakes dry out and grip is optimal.

Bald Beaver Rock’s northern face features a mossy slab that drops off more gently, contrasting the sharply defined, sharp top edge that demands precise footwork and body positioning. Texture here rewards those who are adept at reading granite, offering subtly varied holds where balance is as crucial as strength. It’s a quiet moment on the trail when you find yourself on the boulder’s face — the forested landscape sounds softened, the air crisp, and the granite cold under your fingertips.

For climbers looking to expand their experience in the region, the proximity to the larger Pisgah S Trail climbing locales and Northern Vermont’s broader offerings means Bald Beaver Rock fits perfectly as a focused, intimate bouldering destination. Clean lines, seasonal challenges, and an atmosphere that encourages quiet concentration make it a refined choice for those who appreciate climbing that feels both exposed and protected in equal measure.

Preparing for a visit means packing a couple of good bouldering pads to handle the rock’s changing conditions and feeling comfortable with some moderate cleaning efforts on the mossy sections. Footwear with solid edging capability will serve well to maneuver the flakes and slab confidently.

Bald Beaver Rock doesn’t overwhelm with volume, but it invites a deep connection with each move made on its faces. The combination of accessible approaches, classic bouldering problems, and Vermont’s rugged landscape offers a rewarding experience for climbers aiming to sharpen their skills against a quiet granite giant.

Climber Safety

Be cautious of mossy sections, especially on the northern slab and the top of the boulder, as these can be slippery or fragile — take care when weighting holds and consider the risk before attempting jumps or falls. Seasonal raptor closures restrict access during nesting periods, so confirm current access conditions to avoid disturbing protected wildlife.

Area Details

TypeBoulder
Pitchessingle boulder problems
Length15 feet

Local Tips

Check cragvt.org for seasonal raptor closure updates before visiting.

Bring cleansers or a soft brush to clear moss off holds for optimal grip.

Wear shoes with good edging to navigate sloping flakes and slabs.

Plan climbs during drier months to avoid slippery moss and wet rock.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:Bald Beaver Rock’s grades range from V3 to V6, offering moderate to challenging problems that feel true to their ratings. The climbs reward technical footwork and balance rather than raw power, making this area appealing to those who appreciate finesse on granite surfaces. Compared to other granite bouldering spots in Northern Vermont, the grading is consistent and reliable without significant sandbagging.

Gear Requirements

Access requires awareness of seasonal raptor closures; moss can cover the top and northern slab requiring cleaning before climbing. Two bouldering pads recommended for protection.

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Tags

granite
mossy slab
sloping flakes
bouldering
seasonal closures
forested approach
moderate height
technical footwork